VM-68 Trigger

Double Finger Triggers Trigger Diagram Double Trouble Trigger

WARNING! Everything on this page is provided for informational purposes only. If you screw up your trigger by doing some of this stuff, don't blame me. Messing with a VM trigger is a risky thing if you don't know what you're doing!

The VM has one of the more complex triggers in a paintball gun. But it is also easy to modify once you learn how it works. Making your own trigger for the VM requires nothing more than a little time. I've made several of my own double finger triggers for my VM. You can look at pictures of them here.

The first time I took apart my trigger I didn't watch what I was doing. Three hours later I had it back together with the help of my dad. I looked on the net for a picture to help us put it back together, but didn't find one. I eventually found a picture a few months later in an old Skan-Line catalog. I scanned it and now have it here for others to see in case you do the same thing.

There are two really easy ways to shorten up the trigger pull on a VM. One requires no changes to your gun, but the other one does depending on how you do it.

The easy way requires the following items: a small piece of sheet metal around 2.5"- 4" x 3/4", a drill or drill press, a file, and something to cut the sheet metal (tin snips, band saw). Cut the piece so that it fits between the side rails under the gun, it should be almost exactly 3/4" in width. Now the length depends on your trigger, but 2.5" is about right. Then drill two holes the same distance apart as the holes in the hand guard. Make them big enough so that you can move the piece back and forth on the gun when the screws are in. You want it to look something like this:

<-- Barrel pointing that way.
_______________
|              |  ___
| () ()        | |___|
|______________| ^-trigger
The purpose is to prevent the trigger from moving forward more than it has to. To test where the sear catches, pull the trigger back then cock the gun (with no tank attached). Now slowly let the trigger out, you should feel it catch at some point. That's all the farther it needs to go and that's were the end of your piece should go. Screw down the hand guard over the piece so that it doesn't move. The piece of sheet metal stops the trigger from moving that extra little bit forward and in a way shortens your trigger pull.

The other way requires some modifying of your gun (in this example). All you need is a small screw, a drill press, and a tap. First find a nice screw about 1/2" long. Then drill a hole in the back of the grip lug (the thing behind the trigger) and tap it to the size of the screw you have. Just like this:

         ___________ 
         \         / 
          |       / 
          |     / 
         /   __/ 
()== --> |  | 
         |__| 

The screw serves the same purpose as the other piece. The screw prevents the trigger from going back any farther than it has to after the hammer is released and shortens the trigger pull.

The other way doesn't require any permanent modifications to your gun. It is similar to the forward stroke mod mentioned above. See the picture below for an example.

Another modification you can do involves finding a small tube to slip over the trigger pin that goes over the primary sear. The purpose is to keep to the primary sear from going up any farther than it needs to.

Once you find a tube here's how you can see if it's to thick. Slip the tube onto the trigger pin. Take out the internals and put the trigger pack up to the VM (you don't need to screw it on) and look inside the lower tube along the lower edge. If you can't see the primary sear poking up through slot on the underside of the VM the tube is too thick. You want a tube that allows the sear to just pop up far enough for the hammer to catch on it.

Page last updated: 06/15/03